Thursday 15 November 2018

כשחלום הופך למציאות

לפני עשירם שנה פחות או יותר (אבל מי סופר) התחלתי לרקום את החלום. כשלירון חברתי ואני ישבנו בגסטאהוס ההודי בקאסול, בחדר ממול הייתה משפחה בעלת ארבע נפשות. שני הורים עם שני הילדים הקטנים שלהם. הם היו ישראלים. אני זוכרת שבקצה החדר שלהם עמדה גזייה קטנה עליה הם בישלו. ראיתי את הילדים שלהם מתרחצים בנהר בבוקר וחיוך רחב על פניהם. גם ההורים היו נראים מאושרים.

ככה התחיל החלום.

חשבתי לי שאת כל מה שאני מרגישה כשאני בחורה בראשית חייה, מנותקת מכל מחוייבות וחופשייה בעולם, זה מה שאני ארצה שהמשפחה שלי תרגיש.  וככה התבשל לו החלום. כל הזמן על אש מאוד קטנה, לפעמים לא הייתה בכלל אש לחלום הזה, אבל ככל שהילדים גדלו (חברתי איילת שעשתה את הצעד לפניי) הבנתי שזה אפשרי. כל מה שהיה צריך זה להלהיב את דארן (שזה לא היה כל כך קשה) והופ זה קרה.

חודש אנחנו כבר כאן. הילדים שלנו רצים על ליד הנהר בפאי שבתילאנד מחוייכים ונראים מאושרים. גם ההורים נראים מאושרים. אבל בתוך כל המציאות הזאת ישנם חלקים שלא היו כלולים בחלום שלי, ולא ראיתי אותם אצל המשפחה מלפני עשרים שנה (דההה).


במציאות אנחנו חמישה אנשים עם רצונות ברורים  שלא תמיד זהים, במציאות אנחנו חמישה אנשים בחדר אחד לפעמים יש רק שלוש מיטות, במציאות אנחנו 24/7 עם הילדים (ולא 7/11 כמו שתילאנד מבטיחה בכל מטר) ובמציאות אנחנו ההורים שצריכים לדאוג לשלומם הפיזי והרגשי של שלושת הילדים אז המרחק מהטיול לפני עשרים שנה להיום הוא דיי רחוק... 

בואו נשים את זה כאן ברור אני לא מחליפה את החלום שלי ואני נהנת ממנו, גם מהרגעים הלא קלים שלוהחלום הזה הוא המציאות שאני ודארן בנינו ביחד.

עכשיו נשאר רק להנות....

Sunday 11 November 2018

Fight Club

There are only 3 rules of Fight Club.

The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club.

The second rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club.

Third rule of Fight Club: Fight Club is not really that suitable for 45 year old men who don't know how to throw a punch, but it's great fun for boys of 8 and 5.










Driving us Crazy

We hate driving with our kids in Israel.

It's not that they behave so terribly but they just don't know how to be quiet, there is usually some kind of argument and in the end either me or Shoshi ends up shouting at them.

It's probably equally our fault but the net result is that most drives in Israel aren't particularly enjoyable.

When we arrived in Thailand, we hadn't thought about renting a car, we just assumed we would use public transport, both for the experience and for the cost.  For the first couple of weeks in Bangkok, Kanchanaburi and Khao Sok, that is what we did and it was very enjoyable.

Then in Chiang Mai we realised that getting to the various places we wanted to explore would be difficult with public transport and so hiring a car seemed the most sensible solution.

We debated the pros and cons of driving, specifically about how it might impact on our sanity and in the end we decided to bite the bullet and hire a car.

That was on 7th November and the 5 days since have seen us have more fights, shouting and tears than the previous 3 weeks combined.  Not even praying to the biggest Buddha we could find has helped.


Today was the final straw and we got to the point where I threatened the kids with a quick return to Israel as I am not prepared to drive any longer.

We have the car for another 5 days before we head off to the Philippines.  If we can survive til then, then we should be on our way.  If things get worse, we could be eating גיחנון  for breakfast on Saturday morning in TLV and the kids will be back at school next week.




Friday 9 November 2018

On the Midnight Train to Chiang Mai


Well, not exactly midnight, we left Hua Lamphong Station in Bangkok at 7.55pm but given that we would be spending the next 12 hours on the sleeper train, Gladys Knight would have been proud.


When planning our month in Thailand, we gave the children the choice of flying or sleeper train to Chiang Mai.  ‘Luckily’ they chose the train which I was quite happy about but didn’t go down too well with Shoshi.  I’ll explain why…

My experience of sleeper trains is 1st Class from London Euston to Glasgow Central, my own little cabin, couple of glasses of red in the bar carriage, then drifting off to a pleasant sleep only to be woken the next morning in Glasgow by the subtle smells of 'Greggs the Bakers' Glasgow Central.

Shoshi’s experience is slightly different.  52 hours in 2nd Class on an Indian sleeper, Bombay to Calcutta, packed in like sardines, trying to sleep with both eyes open, scared in case her backpack was stolen, the pungent smell of Vegetable Madras pouring through the carriage.

So suffice to say, Shoshi wasn’t much looking forward to the trip.

As it turned out, it was pretty decent.  Kids were sleeping by 10pm, Shoshi read a book, I listened to some music and watched Netflix.

The only thing missing was a nice glass of Pinot Noir and some Scotrail peanuts.

We awoke a couple of hours outside Chiang Mai, the kids having managed to sleep for around 9 hours, ready to start our northern Thailand adventure.  In front of us, 12 days in Chiang Mai and Pai, looking forward to getting back to nature and de-stressing after our brief pitstop in Bangkok.






Wednesday 7 November 2018

Our Love/Hate Relationship with Bangkok


We were back in Bangkok on 3rd/4th Nov, between leaving Khao Sok and before catching the night train to Chiang Mai.

To paraphrase Murray Head, ‘One night in Bangkok, makes the Gladstones grumpy’.  We hate arriving and love leaving. This city just doesn’t fit us, it brings out the worst in all of us, especially me and Shoshi which in turn means we don’t have any patience for the kids.  The shopping, the incessant taxi and tuk-tuk drivers trying to get a fare, the noise, the neon – it is all the opposite of what we are looking for and what makes us happy.

We did enjoy a couple of hours in Lumpini Park, which is like a mini Central Park, walking and boating, but as soon as we left there and walked around the Siam area, which must be the largest concentration of pure consumerism in the world, then we were all at each other’s’ throats.  Hungry, tired, irritable and generally just pissed off with the city.

Luckily our guesthouse allowed us to check out at 6pm which meant we could go back to relax before heading off for the sleeper train to Chiang Mai. We were thankful for small mercies and were looking forward to our 12 hour train journey (well, 4 of us, Shoshi was coming along under protest but more of that in another post to come).






We did manage to grab some great food at an ‘Al fresco’ street food place opposite the train station, our table on the inside lane of a 3-lane dual carriageway. Living life literally in the fast lane, then headed off for the train.


Thankfully we won’t be back in Bangkok again, only having to spend a night at an airport hotel before flying to the Philippines in a couple of weeks. But it has given us plenty of food for thought on our onward plans.  Should we avoid other large cities, should we miss out on places like HCMC, Hanoi, Phnom Penh and others or will they offer experiences beyond that of Bangkok?  

We don’t have the answers for now, suffice to say that Bangkok, you won’t be missed.

Tuesday 6 November 2018

קאו סוק לפי מילי



היינו בקאוסוק היה מדהיםםם. היינו באגם מלכותי . לפני שנים התיאלנדים בנו סכר ועם השנים יצאו מהאגם אבנים ענקיות (זה נראה כמו הרים) התחילו לצמוח עצים מהאבנים.


הייתה קבוצה של אנשים שיצאו אתנו לטיול לקחו אותנו במיניבוס ושהגענו היינו צריכים לחכות לסירה ושהיא הגיעה המדריך שלנו עלה קודם לסירה ואז קראו לנו ואמרו לנו ללבוש חליפת הצלה. שטנו די הרבה זמן על האגם המקסים הזה. הנוף היה כל כך יפה. האחים שלי ואני ישבנו על קצה הסירה וזה היה ממש כיף. אחרי שעה בערך עצרנו במקום שבו הייתה מסעדה וחדרי שינה על המים. הייתה לנו הפסקה של שעה ויכלנו לעשות קיקים  באגם והיה אפשר לשחות. אכלנו את הארוחת צוהריים ואז המדריך שאל מי רוצה להשאר פה ולנוח עוד שעתיים ומי רוצה לעשות טרק בג'ונגל למערה של נטיפים. כולם יצאו חוץ מזוג אחד שנשאר לנוח..

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בטרק כדי להגיע למערה הינו צריכים ללכת חצי שעה בג'ונגל ממש מטריף. ראינו עלים ששינו את הצבע לכחול, המדריך גם הראה לנו איפה מתחבא העכביש טרנטולה. הוא הצליח לגרום לו לצאת מהמסתור שלו וזה היה מבהיל ומגניב. אחרי ההליכה הגענו לרפסודות שיקחו אותנו למערה בצד השני של האגם. המערה הייתה מערת נטיפים מיוחד במינה. היו נטיפים בכל הגדלים והמדריך הראה לנו שאם מפתחים את הדמיון ניתן לראות נטיפים בדמויות... ראינו בודהה, פילים.  בסוף  המערה היתה סוג של הצגה עם הנטיפיםץ כיבינו את הפנסים ובעזרת הנטיפים והאצבעות המדריך עשה הצללה על הקיר של מכשפה. אחר כך גם אני ניסיתי לעשות וזה היה מגניב מאוד.  

ביום אחר עשינו טרק לבד בג'ונגל. זה היה מגניב בסוף היו כל מני מפלים וראינו זקית בגודל ענקי והדבר הכי מדהים הוא......... ראינו משפחה של קופים. בהתחלה ראינו רק קוף אחד ואז אני גיליתי  את המשפחה הם היו בערך עשרים קופים. היו הרבה קופים קטנים זה היה מגניב. ראינו אותם עוברים בין העצים ויושבים על העצים. הדבר היחיד שהיה חסר ה היה לראות פילים...




חוץ מזה היינו בכל יום במלון ובכל בוקר שתינו שייק פירות. אני הכי אוהבת שייק מנגו.הבריכה במלון רוב הפעמים הייתה רק שלנו היה מאוד כיף ממליצה על המלון הזה.



Monday 5 November 2018

Khao Sok – The best place in Thailand you’ve probably never heard of


It could very well be that in 9 months’ time, we will be looking back at our entire trip and agreeing that Khao Sok was our favourite place.  It’s a bold statement when we have only been travelling for 2 weeks but the past 5 days in this magical place has really been amazing.



Khao Sok is the largest national park in Thailand, it’s located in the strip of land between the islands of Koh Phangan and Koh Samoi on the east and the west coast resort area of Khao Lak.

We flew from Bangkok to Surat Thani on 29th Oct, all of us in good spirits after Mili received her new retainer from the great orthodontists at Smile Siam Square. A 1.5-hour flight from the noise and chaos of Bangkok and we were in the quiet south.  Two hours later in our van transfer and we arrived at the Morning Mist Hotel, our home for the next 5 nights.  It was 7pm, dark and so we could not see too much.  What we missed seeing, was made up for in hearing, with the most amazing jungle sounds of crickets, frogs and various other animals – it was almost deafening at times.

Day 1

We awoke the next day to see that we were basically in the middle of the Khao Sok jungle.  Our room was a wooden jungle cabin, couple of double beds with mosquito nets, surrounded by trees, bushes, flowers and wildlife.  Instantly we felt relaxed. 


We picked this hotel for 2 reasons – price and pool.  At only $25 per night, it was an absolute bargain and the added advantage of a pool meant the kids could have some time just to swim and play which we felt they needed.  So we decided to spend our first full day at the pool.  Dad worked, Mum read and the kids swam for about 7 hours (with a little schoolwork thrown in for good measure).  We then headed out for our typical evening of noodles, rice and curry.



Day 2

The main attraction in Khao Sok is the lake  trip (180 sq km of lake) so we booked this for our second day.  We had heard plenty about how beautiful it was, and we had planned to be here in April before we had to cancel that vacation so we were really looking forward to finally seeing if it matched up to the hype.


The day consisted of a boat tour, amazing lunch on a floating resort, swimming and kayaking on the lake, a 2 hour hike and motor raft to an amazing cave and then a boat tour back to land.  To say it lived up to the hype would be an understatement.


Aside from the world-class, breathtaking scenery, highlight of the day was the now weekly attempt by another Thai woman from ‘adopting’ Guy.  On the floating lake resort after lunch, the conversion went along these lines:

“You velly handsome boy, you velly beautiful, you want to come with me?”

But back to nature, I’ll let the photos tell the story, suffice to say it is a day that will live long in the memory.







Day 3

After the exertions of the Lake trip, the kids wanted another pool day so we duly obliged.  I did some work again (although doesn’t feel much like work when this is the view).


In the afternoon, we decided to go for a short trek down the river and explore the local area.  We stumbled across a beautiful spot in the river, blue/ green water and a swinging rope which the kids loved.  We must have spent a couple of hours here and was a highlight for the kids.

 



The evening was like every evening in Khao Sok – some food in one of the nearby restaurants, completely chilled-out atmosphere, not a care in the world, then sleeping by 10pm. I think it might have been on Day 3 that Shoshi casually asked if I thought we could run one of these guesthouses.  The magical atmosphere in Khao Sok gets to everyone in the end!


Day 4

Continuing our trend of rotating exploring and relaxing days, on Day 4 we hit the National Park for an 8km trek through the jungle.  The first 6km or so was on a fairly good path, surrounded by amazing lush jungle. At various points, we were able to climb down and go for a dip in the Sok River which was a welcome respite from the heat. 






The last 2 km was on unmarked trails, real jungle trekking and provided us with a magical experience.  We heard some rustling in the trees and looked up and saw what we thought was a monkey swinging across the branches.  It was amazing, we couldn’t believe we were seeing a monkey in the wild, a real David Attenborough moment.  As we tried to follow him/her swinging, we suddenly started to see more and more monkeys, quickly realising that we were actually watching a group of up
 to 20 monkeys in the trees above our heads.


As we said to the kids, they will probably be telling their own kids about this moment in another 30 years’ time.


Aside from the monkeys, the highlight of the day was Mili finally agreeing to eat some local Thai food and actually enjoying it.  She has now decided that fried rice with vegetables is her favorite food so the last 2 weeks of plain boiled rice have not been in vain.






Day 5

Up early for a walk through the jungle, then a van back to Surat Thani airport for our afternoon flight to Bangkok.  We’ve now got 24 hours there before taking the overnight train to Chiang Mai for the next part of our Thai adventure.

Special mention to Andy and Suwipa (and their 2 year old English-speaking daughter), the owners of the Morning Mist Hotel who gave us plenty of advice on planning our time and made us feel so welcome. Israeli hotel owners could learn a lot from them.





If the north of Thailand lives up to our time in Khao Sok, then we are in for some unforgettable experiences.